kunst Meran im haus der Sparkasse | Merano arte edificio Cassa di Risparmio

 

 

 

brillant(e)

Jewellery in Fine Art

During the 20th century numerous artists have contemplated "jewellery" and the human desire "to adorn" and used, in their works of art, "pieces of jewellery" as motives or materials. In doing so, they refer to precious jewellery worn on the body as well as other forms of ornaments, such as body painting or tattooing. The theme is not only the "adorned body", but also the piece of jewellery as an aesthetic object, jewellery in an architectural context or jewellery as a commercial product. The different meanings of jewellery, which often point to psychological and existential matters, are analysed and challenged by the artists.

 

 

 

 

Jewellery as an aesthetic object: Several artists have treated items of jewellery or single materials used in jewellery, independent of the body, and placed their aesthetic effect in the spotlight.

Michael Buthe, James Lee Byars, Jürgen Stollhans, Marcello Jori

Jewellery as Ornament: The relationship between the piece of jewellery and its wearer, meaning the contemplation of the function of jewellery and the concept that jewellery should not only adorn its wearer but also emphasise her personality, is the theme in several photographic works.

Eugene von Bruenchenhein, Ugo Mulas, Anna and Bernhard Blume


Jürgen Stollhans
»Ring«, 1994
100 x 70 cm
Woodcut on Paper
as cutout and wall installation
Courtesy Otto Schweins Galerie, Köln

Decorations as Jewellery: A decoration was originally a sort of military identification reflecting the self-image, die power and the identity of the wearer. Nowadays decorations are seen as emblems of honour with high political importance, which serve to distinguish exceptional services and merit..

Marcel Odenbach

 

Jewellery as indentification: Jewellery is also always a means of self-portrayal, as it satisfies two needs of the wearer: it serves to distinguish one's own identity from that of others, as well as to show one's affiliation with society, with a certain class or group.

Andy Warhol, Nan Goldin, Valentina Seidel

The adorned body: Older than the movable piece of jewellery, worn on the body, is the direct ornamentation of the body with body ornaments such as painting, tattooing or piercing. This form of body ornamentation is now a common and widespread phenomenon.

Manfred Peckl, Daniele Buetti, Susan Pietsch and Valentina Seidel

 


Nan Goldin
»Jimmy Paulette after the parade«, 1991
C-Print, 50 x 61,5 cm
Banque et Caisse d´Epargne de l´Etat,
Luxembourg

Jewellery in public space: A group of artists which works mostly in public spaces, has transferred the theme of "jewellery" to the context of architecture and has "adorned" various buildings with outsized objects of jewellery.

Inges Idee

 

Jewellery as a symbol of power: The crown, which developed in the early middle ages out of the roman wreath of honour or victory wreath as well as the tiara and king's helmet, is at the same time ornament for the head and a sign of royal dignity. It represents an omnipotent, higher order, which is supposed to legitimate the actions of the ruler.

Stefan Kürten, Joseph Beuys

 

Jewellery as consumer-product: A number of artists have treated jewellery in a commercial context and have picked out as themes, jewellery as a product as well as the exploitation of jewellery.

Haim Steinbach, Stefanie Klingemann

 

 

Jewellery and/or Art | Art as Jewellery | Jewellery in Fine Art| Artists| Project Team