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brillant(e)
Jewellery in Fine Art
During the 20th century numerous artists have contemplated
"jewellery" and the human desire "to adorn"
and used, in their works of art, "pieces of jewellery"
as motives or materials. In doing so, they refer to precious
jewellery worn on the body as well as other forms of ornaments,
such as body painting or tattooing. The theme is not only
the "adorned body", but also the piece of jewellery
as an aesthetic object, jewellery in an architectural context
or jewellery as a commercial product. The different meanings
of jewellery, which often point to psychological and existential
matters, are analysed and challenged by the artists.
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Jewellery as an aesthetic object: Several artists
have treated items of jewellery or single materials used in
jewellery, independent of the body, and placed their aesthetic
effect in the spotlight.
Michael Buthe, James Lee Byars, Jürgen Stollhans, Marcello
Jori
Jewellery as Ornament: The relationship between the
piece of jewellery and its wearer, meaning the contemplation
of the function of jewellery and the concept that jewellery
should not only adorn its wearer but also emphasise her personality,
is the theme in several photographic works.
Eugene von Bruenchenhein, Ugo Mulas, Anna and Bernhard Blume
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Jürgen Stollhans
»Ring«, 1994
100 x 70 cm
Woodcut on Paper
as cutout and wall installation
Courtesy Otto Schweins Galerie, Köln
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Decorations as Jewellery: A decoration was originally
a sort of military identification reflecting the self-image,
die power and the identity of the wearer. Nowadays decorations
are seen as emblems of honour with high political importance,
which serve to distinguish exceptional services and merit..
Marcel Odenbach
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Jewellery as indentification: Jewellery is also always
a means of self-portrayal, as it satisfies two needs of the
wearer: it serves to distinguish one's own identity from that
of others, as well as to show one's affiliation with society,
with a certain class or group.
Andy Warhol, Nan Goldin, Valentina Seidel
The adorned body: Older than the movable piece of
jewellery, worn on the body, is the direct ornamentation of
the body with body ornaments such as painting, tattooing or
piercing. This form of body ornamentation is now a common
and widespread phenomenon.
Manfred Peckl, Daniele Buetti, Susan Pietsch and Valentina
Seidel
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Nan Goldin
»Jimmy Paulette after the parade«, 1991
C-Print, 50 x 61,5 cm
Banque et Caisse d´Epargne de l´Etat,
Luxembourg |
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Jewellery in public space: A group of artists which
works mostly in public spaces, has transferred the theme of
"jewellery" to the context of architecture and has
"adorned" various buildings with outsized objects
of jewellery.
Inges Idee
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Jewellery as a symbol of power: The crown, which developed
in the early middle ages out of the roman wreath of honour
or victory wreath as well as the tiara and king's helmet,
is at the same time ornament for the head and a sign of royal
dignity. It represents an omnipotent, higher order, which
is supposed to legitimate the actions of the ruler.
Stefan Kürten, Joseph Beuys
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Jewellery as consumer-product: A number of artists have treated
jewellery in a commercial context and have picked out as themes,
jewellery as a product as well as the exploitation of jewellery.
Haim Steinbach, Stefanie Klingemann
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Jewellery
and/or Art | Art
as Jewellery | Jewellery
in Fine Art| Artists|
Project Team
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